Travel Theme: Light

plain-of-jars-lightThe Plain of Jars Site 1, my final stop over a hellishly adventurous day of exploring ancient ruins amidst active minefields. I was convinced my wrists may be broken after 5 hours of riding on a motorcycle after a spill on a jagged road.

Site 1 is the largest and most accessible of the Plain of Jars sites, making it less appealing in a way. Dozens of giant stone jars little a landscape torn apart by stray bombs from the Vietnam War. Their purpose is unknown. Why would people who live in reed and bamboo homes and barely subsist in rice cultivation have put so much effort into creating such massive stoneworks?

Through the pain, as it might be my only chance to ever see these, it had been an otherwise amazing day. Small Laos towns, abandoned war zones, mysterious ancient monuments. Late in my time at Site 1, the newly thickened clouds gave way to an immense pillar of light shining down over the hills of this once-devastated plain.

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Culture

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Out on the open road again, this time in the southern limits of Laos, I was driving away from the insanity of the New Year water festival, Songkran or Pii Mai Lao, that would be ensuing in Pakse.

About forty kilometers downstream on the Mekong River is town of Champasak, former capital of one of the Lao Kingdoms, though you would never know by seeing the town today. The road to Champasak was a desolate one. Being the dry season, all small streams and tributaries to the Mekong were bone dry sand beds.

Just before entering the town of Champasak, there is a checkpoint where I was stopped the those manning the stand. Waving me to the side of the road in their Hawaiian shirts and straw hats, tokens of the water festival, they had pulled me over simply to ask me to join them for, of all things, a Vietnamese beer.

We spent the next twenty minutes having a rough conversation in a mix of my horrid Thai, their limited English, and a lot of laughing and gestures. Occasionally, one of the checkpoint employees would be forced to go to their stand to collect the toll from a passerby. This would sometimes result in an exchange of watergun fire in celebration of their cultural New Year.

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Travel Theme: Contrast

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Straddling the Cambodia border, atop of the extinct volcano of Phanom Rung, is one of the most magnificent Angkorian structures outside of Cambodia.  Prasat Phanom Rung is a temple dedicated to Shiva and on a major pilgrimage route stemming from Angkor Wat to Phimai in Thailand.

To this day, Buddhist pilgrims come and honor this site, a symbol of the religion from which their stems, much in the same way Christians visit Jewish sites.

Leading up to the main monument are a series of ornate, paved walkways called Naga Bridges.

This picture is one of my favorites from the site, contrasting the natural tones of the trees and grey stonework with the bright, artificial, and some might argue spiritual, colors of the saffron robes the Buddhist monks wear.

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A Melaka Day

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One thing I don’t seem to do often enough in new cities is go to museums. Given the long history involved in Melaka, and the entire Strait of Malacca region, I wasn’t going to pass it up here. Rising early and making the short walk across the river from the Tidur Tidur Guest House, I was not immediately impressed by the selection of museums.

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The Stamp Museum.  Not exactly for me.

The Stamp Museum. Not exactly for me.

I decided to pass on ones like the Melaka Stamp Museum. The historic remains of colonial buildings which I saw illuminated the last night were interesting, but too recent to be of significant interest to me. I was interested in pre-European history of this region, perhaps suggesting something similar to what I found at Lembah Bujang?

The traditional history museum, thankfully provided a fantastic portrait of how old Melaka, and also old Malaya actually functioned. In addition, it had a small exhibit on loan about ancient Chinese artifacts, which were particularly impressive.

Some ancestral Malay musical instruments.  Unfortunately, I couldn't take picture of the really good stuff.

Some ancestral Malay musical instruments. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take picture of the really good stuff.

But the time I walked out of the museum, the token heat of southern Malaysia had kicked in full. Still, I had been to Chinatown the last night, so now it was time for Little India of Melaka. Little India here is not obvious, but it sprawls a significant ways in Melaka.

 

So I found a place based on a traveller’s rule of thumb: Go where the locals are going. This resulted in me sitting at a 3 meter aluminum table alongside very anxious Indians. My meal was something I picked at random and was then served on a banana leaf. This variety of meat-pastes I was given blended nicely with the rice and naan, completing what, I think, is my most authentic Indian meal to date.

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An article written about the owner of the guesthouse.

An article written about the owner of the guesthouse.

By now, the heat was exhausting, and I had a ways to walk to the bus stop. I thanked the owner, Stanley Chin, of the shop again and bought one of his Chinese Zodiac year t-shirts. Unfortunately, he didn’t have an Xl and the L in Asia is never the same as a European or American large. So, it doesn’t quite fit to this day.

Once back at the central bus station, it was a few hours until the next bus to Singapore. Passing time in a bus station is always tedious, though some station are admittedly more entertaining than others. The Melaka Bus Station, despite its size, is very boring.

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Up

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After a disappointing turn around by a military blockade in the disputed border region of Cambodia/Thailand on my way to try and see the ruins of Prasat Preah Vihear, I was aching to see something in the realm of Lost Cities. So, leaving Si Phan Don a day early and returning to Pakse in southern Laos, I was once again on the road heading toward the Cambodia border.

These ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known collectively as the Champasack Cultural Landscape, but more commonly known as Wat Phou, lay just outside of Champasack, the capital of one of the three pre-European Lao kingdoms. Although driving through it, and even the Ancient City nearby, you would never suspect that.

Wat Phou seems to be one of the most ancient Khmer shrines. It houses a natural spring atop the terraces at the base of the mountain. And, the mountain itself is interpreted as a naturally-formed linta, the phallic symbol representing Shiva.

Since the fall of the Khmer Empire and the spread of Buddhism in the region, Wat Phou has since become an active Buddhist shrine, complete with at least 5 representations of Siddhartha Gautama around the main temple atop the terraces at the base of the mountain’s cliffs.

These stairs leading up to the central temple are unleveled, eroded, and in odd states of disarray. Throw in the fact that they are immensely steep and not always wide enough for an entire foot, and care must certainly be taken when ascending to the shrine.

Although, once you reach the top, it is most certainly worth it.

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A Melaka Night

The riverwalk at night.

The riverwalk at night.

Melaka at night is a wholly different experience from the tranquility of the dusk riverwalk. It’s certainly not a city bustling with nightlife, but it certainly does come alive at night.

The suspended dragon, now a shimmering gold in the night lighting, kicked off the entrance to the Chinatown street market. Like others I had been to in Thailand, this night market became a mass of shoulder-to-shoulder people moving slowly and stopping abruptly to look at the random and often useless trinkets for sale at the booths.

Melaka chicken rice balls.

Melaka chicken rice balls.

One of the things I had heard about Melaka was that it had some very interesting and unique food dishes. One of these easily found in Chinatown was the chicken rice balls. Despite all the hype behind these little orbs, about the size of ping-pong balls, I thought they were pretty bland and too dry for what they were. Then again, maybe I just wasn’t eating them correctly.

A random street made of open-air bars named Jonker Walk shot off the main street. It’s lights and food stands seemed to be drawing a crowd, though the most interesting sight in the area was the very exaggerated statue of Datuk Wira Dr. Gan Boon Leong, or Mr. Melaka. Apparently he is the father of Malaysian bodybuilding, but his statue was too funny to pass up a picture with.

The Jonker Walk night market.

The Jonker Walk night market.

The main nightlife area of Jonker Walk.

The main nightlife area of Jonker Walk.

Had to pose with Mr. Melaka himself...

Had to pose with Mr. Melaka himself…

Back across the river, all the historic building were lit up and passing through them were some of the most elaborately and ridiculously decorated rickshaws I could ever have imagined. I’d seen some pimped-out tuk-tuks in Thailand, but they had nothing on these pedal-rickshaws. Lights and paper-flower work covered every square centimeter. They had music, Asian and American pop blaring from speakers somehow attached somewhere on these oversized tricycles.

 

The area nearing the mouth of the river on this side houses a vast and confusing complex of buildings, many looking like hotels and apartments, I had to navigate around in order to find my way back to the other side.

Very hot water.

Very hot water.

My night ended in Chinatown as the night market was beginning to break down after a stimulating Chinese foot reflexology massage. It was stimulating mostly because, instead of washing my feet like I was used to in Thailand, I actually had to submerge them in near-boiling water for about 20 second in order to soften them up. It took me a couple tries.

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Weekly Reblog #15: The Dvaravati Chedi of Roi Et

The Dvaravati Chedi in Roi Et, Thailand.  © South East Asian Kingdoms

The Dvaravati Chedi in Roi Et, Thailand. © South East Asian Kingdoms

 

The Dvaravati Chedi of Roi Et | South East Asian Kingdoms

“The town of Roi Et has never attracted more than the odd traveller passing through but for the art history fan or Dvaravati relic-hunter, it has one treasure. On the grounds of a wat called Wat Neua there is a most unusual chedi
- South East Asian Kingdoms

 

Roi Et is a town that has gained my interest lately.  Located almost in the dead center of Isan, this small provincial capital hosts much more history than a pass over on a map would lead one to believe.

This, apparently, dates back to the Dvaravati, the oldest civilization of what would be the modern Thailand.  The Dvaravati were the first group of Buddhists to enter South East Asia, coming from Burma.  Setting up their center at Nakhon Pathom, about 45 km west of Bangkok, they spread through Thailand and Laos, and even into Cambodia.

Meanwhile, centuries later, the Khmer Empire would influence this area and leave ruins like Ku Ka Sing, the site that initially enticed me to this area.  Despite not being located in Muang (the city of) Roi Et, these ruins had led me onto many more that I plan to investigate in the near future.

Since then, I’ve learned a good deal that the town itself has to offer.  They are exceptionally proud of their lake in the center of the town, which hosts a very large image of the Walking Buddha.  Otherwise, from pictures I have seen, it just looks like an overall more pleasant town than most in Isan I have seen.

The author of this reblog, southeastasiankingdoms.wordpress.com, has made it a point to raise awareness of those cultures that have eluded our modern recongition in this area.  I look forward to reading more entries in this blog

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